Janome Domestic Sewing Machine Maintenance

Do It Yourself Machine Maintenance

Needle Knowledge Click Here To Select Your Needle Type

THERE'S A LARGE VARIETY OF NEEDLES AVAILABLE TODAY but the general rules for usage still hold true. Use sharp points for woven fabrics, ball-point needles for knits and universal points for both wovens and knits. Needle sizes are usually marked with European and American numbers, with the European number first. Needle sizes range from 60/8 (finest) to 120/19 (thickest).

Ball-point/stretch needles have a slightly rounded tip that goes between the threads of a knit fabric--available in sizes 70/10 through 100/16.

Sharp (Microtex) needles have a sharp point to pierce the threads of woven fabric--good for heirloom sewing and quilt piecing. Available in sizes 60/8 through 90/14.

Universal needle points are slightly rounded for use with knit fabrics, yet sharp enough for wovens--available in sizes 60/8 through 120/19.

Denim/jeans needles have an extra-sharp point and stiff shank for stitching denim, heavy faux leather and other densely woven fabrics. Available in sizes 70/10 through 110/18.

Leather needles have a wedge-shaped point to penetrate leather, suede, heavy faux leather and nonwoven fabrics--available in sizes 80/12 through 110/18.

Machine-embroidery needles are designed to prevent thread shredding and breakage when sewing dense designs with rayon, metallic and other embroidery threads. Available in sizes 75/11 through 90/14.

Metallic needles feature a longer eye, fine shaft and sharp point to eliminate thread breakage, shredding and skipped stitches. They also work well with monofilament threads. Also known as Metallica, Metafil and Metallic Machine Embroidery--available in sizes 70/10 through 90/14.

Quilting needles have a sharp tapered point to sew through thick layers and across seams--available in sizes 75/11 through 90/14.

Topstitch needles have an extra-sharp point, larger eye and groove to accommodate topstitching thread. Available in sizes 80/12 through 100/16.

Begin by cleaning the lint from your machine. Remove the throatplate, using the screwdriver if necessary. Brush out all visible lint with the brush. Many people prefer to use canned air--there is some controversy as to the value-versus-harm when using canned air. Some believe it causes condensation on the machine interior, thus creating an environment for rust. Also, lint can be forced into the machine rather than blown out. To avoid both situations, spray canned air at an angle to the parts you're cleaning and keep the nozzle several inches away from the area to avoid condensation; or simply vacuum the lint out.

Once the machine is free of lint, lubricate it with oil. Most machines should be oiled at least every six months--three months for sergers. Be sure to follow the oiling schedule outlined in your owner's manual. Only use oil specifically made for sewing machines--don't use WD40 or other lubricants; they can harm your machine. Refer to your owner's manual for oiling locations--one drop of oil is enough in any spot.

Some of the newer sewing machines don't require lubricating, so refer to your owner's manual to see if it's necessary. If you own a Singer Featherweight or other old machine, take it to a service professional every couple of years to have the motor bushings greased.

Take your machine to be serviced about every two years. Have the service professional perform a basic service, which includes cleaning, oiling, balancing the tension and a quick once-over of the machine. They should provide a stitchout of both straight and zigzag stitches to show the tension balance. For sergers you should receive a four-thread stitchout and a rolled-hem stitchout (leave the necessary plate and foot for the mechanic to use).

Have a complete sewing machine service every three to five years, depending on use. A complete service includes additional checks beyond the basic service. Sergers should get a complete service every three years.

Diagnosing Stitching Problems

When problems occur no matter how diligently you take care of your machine--oftentimes you can diagnose and fix the problems yourself.

If the stitches are looping on the fabric underside it's possible the machine is threaded incorrectly. Remove the thread completely and rethread the machine. Be sure to use good quality thread--don't buy the cheapest you can find. A good thread will help your machine perform better and your projects last longer.

Poor stitch quality can be caused by the needle. Make sure you're using a new needle that's right for the job. Many times machines are taken in for repairs and all they need is a new needle. If you can't remember the last time you changed the needle--it's past time. Needles should be changed at least every eight hours of sewing.

When inserting a new needle, make sure the flat side of the needle faces away from the bobbin area. For example, if your machine has a frontloading bobbin, the flat side of the needle faces the back of the machine. If your machine has a side-loading bobbin, the flat side faces the right side of the machine. Some older sergers require special needles that don't have a flat side. Refer to your owner's manual to properly install a serger needle.

Thread that shreds or breaks can be blamed on the needle. Use a good thread and make sure the needle eye is large enough for the thread type. Also use the right type of needle for the fabric;

Tension

The machine tension adjustments put stress on the thread so it doesn't simply flow through the machine. When the upper and lower tensions are balanced, the stitch forms correctly. Tension is easy to adjust--stitch on fabric samples with a different thread colour for the upper and lower threads. Observe the stitch, adjusting the tension until the stitch is formed correctly. As a general rule, adjust the upper tension first. If the stitch still isn't right, adjust the bobbin tension.

The upper and lower threads should interlock halfway in the fabric thickness (1).

If the bobbin thread is visible on the upper layer, loosen the upper tension or tighten the bobbin tension (2).

If the upper thread is visible on the back of your work, tighten the upper tension or loosen the bobbin tension (3). Tightening upper tension means increasing the number--normally set at about four. Loosening means going to a lower number.

To change the bobbin tension, turn the small screw on the bobbin case in small increments--no more than a quarter turn at a time. Turning the screw to the right tightens the tension, and turning to the left loosens the tension. Many people have two bobbin cases--one for regular sewing that is hardly ever adjusted, and one for sewing with decorative thread, which is adjusted as needed.

Serger tensions behave the same way--turning to the right or a higher number increases the tension, turning to the left or lower number loosens the tension.

Keep a sample notebook of your sewing machine decorative stitches and your serger stitches--noting the threads and tensions used for each sample. You'll save time by referring to the notebook for the proper settings.

If you're still having trouble after cleaning, oiling, checking the needle and adjusting the tension, or if the machine sounds "funny," or is having electrical problems, it's time to call your service professional. They may offer some additional suggestions, but it's likely you'll need to take in the machine. Having a service professional that you trust is essential--ask friends for recommendations. You should feel comfortable with this person, and they should be able to give you a price estimate before beginning the work. They should also be able to explain the repairs made and charges for each.

Your machine is your tool. The quality of your projects and your sewing experience is affected by how well your machine performs. If you're fighting it, you probably won't enjoy your sewing--and it's supposed to be fun. Take care of your machine and it will perform for many years.

A well-made sewing machine or traditional serger, new or old, used often or only occasionally will sew perfectly for many years if it is given proper care. It may need to be adjusted or a part may need to be replaced, but a sewing machine that is given proper maintenance and cleaned regularly seldom actually wears out.

Sewing machines generally require the basic maintenance of cleaning, oiling, and lubricating. These procedures are recommended in the use and care booklet that comes with the machine. It is the best reference for the specific care required by your machine. Some machines are designed to be oil-and lubricant-free so follow the directions in that booklet carefully.

If you do not have an instruction booklet for your sewing machine, contact your local sewing machine centre to obtain one. If they do not have one in stock, write to the manufacturer of the machine to obtain one. Be sure to give the machine name, model, serial number and the approximate age of the machine.

GETTING AT THE PROBLEM

When you have trouble with your sewing machine, a good rule to follow is Clean it first. Many problems are caused by dust, lint or thread ends that have collected on the working parts of the machine.

Simply brushing lint and dust from the machine each time it is used is a good way to prevent many problems. Use the soft nylon brush that comes with the machine or a narrow paint brush to dust away lint in the bobbin case, under the needle plate, and around the feed dog. A needle or tweezers can be used to remove pieces of thread or lint that cannot be brushed away. Cans of pressurized air are also available to blow dust and lint away.

In time, lint and dust that are allowed to accumulate in a sewing machine can become soaked with oil and/or lubricant and interfere with the operation of the machine. When this gummy grime is removed, the machine will work more freely, and adjustment may not be necessary. Removing this unwanted build-up requires more care and time than everyday maintenance.

The following procedure does not apply to all electric machines specifically those with bearings packed in grease and chain-stitch machines. They do apply to older models of electric lock-stitch machines and treadle machines. Check your machine instruction booklet to determine the procedure recommended to clean it, then use this pamphlet along with your booklet.

SUPPLIES AND EQUIPMENT

You need the following equipment and supplies for the job:

Pie or cake pan for soaking parts in cleaning fluid

Small screw driver

Large screw driver

Small adjustable wrench

Hammer (optional)

Small oil can (clean) for cleaning fluid

Cleaning brush (narrow, nylon)

Paring knife (or pocket knife)

Long needle or small crochet hook

Tweezers

Cleaning cloths

Fabric to test stitching

Can of sewing machine oil (check your machine instruction booklet for the type recommended)

Tube of sewing machine lubricant (check your machine instruction booklet for the type recommended)

Small bottle or can of cleaning solvent that will not flash flame at temperatures below 120^O F. It is usually available at gasoline stations or cleaning establishments. Never use gasoline; it is highly flammable. Never use carbon tetrachloride; it is very poisonous.

Newspapers

Plastic wraps (household type)

Rubber gloves

Magnifying glass (optional)

Torch (optional)

After assembling all supplies and equipment, unplug and move the machine to a cleaning area that is well lighted. Protect the floor and table top with newspapers. A good floor or table lamp to light the work area from over your left shoulder will be helpful. A flashlight is also helpful in adding light in hard to see areas.

GENERAL CLEANING

As you clean the machine, it is best to clean one area at a time. Remove only the parts that are involved and be sure to note where each part is from, its position, and which side is top.

Remove all the parts possible in order to clean the machine
thoroughly. Keep the parts in order to make it easier to re-
place them.

When removing parts, remember that left is loose and right is tight on practically all screws and bolts. When using a screw driver, put the pressure on the push, not on the twist. If a screw will not loosen easily, soak it with cleaning fluid. Then set the screw driver in the slot and tap sharply with a hammer before attempting to loosen. The screwdriver blade should be as wide as the slot in the screw is long. Always use a wrench not pliers on bolts.

First, remove the needle, presser foot, slide plate, throat plate, bobbin case, and the face plate (if it comes off). Put them in the pan and cover with cleaning fluid. Set aside to soak while cleaning other areas.

Next, wrap the motor (if necessary) and wire with plastic wrap to protect them from oil and cleaning solvent. Be sure the machine has been unplugged!

Now, it is time to begin work to clean the machine head. With a sharp pointed tool, clean out all oil holes. Then, with your hand, turn the hand wheel to run the machine. At the same time, squirt cleaning fluid into all the oil holes, on all bearings and on all other places where one part rubs against or turns within another.

Bobbin Area -- If possible, remove the bobbin case to
remove all lint and stray threads.

If the machine begins to run hard, it is a sign that dirt or lint has jammed inside a bearing. Continue running the machine and flushing with cleaning fluid until the dirt and gummed oil are washed from the bearing. When the machine runs easily again, tip the head and flush the parts underneath the machine all oil holes, bearing and places that rub against or within another. Continue running the machine by hand until it functions smoothly.

Upper Thread Tension -- Pull a piece of cloth soaked in
solvent back and forth between discs to clean

To remove any remaining dirt and oil, dip a cloth or brush in cleaning fluid and scrub all parts of machine that can be reached. Use a needle, knife or other pointed instrument to dig or scrap away any remaining gummed dirt or lint in the feed dog, around the bobbin case, and in other areas.

Check the lower tension of the bobbin case and the upper thread tension discs. Pull a thread under the tension of the bobbin to remove dirt. Pull a piece of cloth soaked in cleaning fluid back and forth between the disc of the upper tension. Repeat with a dry cloth to be sure no lint or thread is caught between them.

AREAS NEEDING ATTENTION

In addition to general cleaning, three areas need special attention. They include the hand wheel bearing and the clutch assembly, the needle -bar and presser foot, and the hook and bobbin areas assembly. When the hand wheel assembly gets gummy and dirty, it must be cleaned for the clutch to work properly. The clutch disengages the needle-bar when winding a bobbin.

Some new sewing machines refill the bobbin in its regular position and a clutch is not necessary. In such machines, it is not often necessary to remove the hand wheel to clean this area.

Bobbin and Hook Area

Lint is the primary offender in this area. The bobbin case can be removed on all makes of machines. Use a dry brush to clean out all lint. Remove any thread that may be wound up around the hook shaft. On many machines, the hook assembly can also be removed for more complete cleaning. Place one drop of oil on the exterior perimeter of the hook and the bobbin race to lubricate if after cleaning.

Bobbin Area -- Clean carefully to remove lint using
a soft brush. Tweezers may be helpful in removing
stray threads.

Face Plate Area

The face plate on most machines is held in place with one or two screws. By removing these, the plate can be easily removed for cleaning of the needle-bar and presser foot bar. On some of the newer machines, the face plate is a part of a housing that is mounted on hinges, which makes it easy to move the entire housing away from the bars and mechanisms behind it. No other parts need to be removed for cleaning in this area. First use a dry brush to clean out all lint and other foreign material. A small piece of cloth with a little solvent on it can be used to clean the needle-bar and presser bar of any gummy grease.

After thoroughly cleaning, place a drop or two of oil on each shaft where it slides through the housing. Oil all other moving parts according to your instruction book before replacing face plate.

Face Plate Area -- Remove lint from faceplate area using a soft brush. A cloth
dipped in solvent can be used to remove grease and grime.

Face Plate Area -- Place a drop or two of oil on moving parts
where they slide through a housing or move against each
other

Hand wheel Area

To remove the clutch and hand wheel, loosen the small screw in the face of the locknut (the locknut is the part that is turned to the left to release the clutch for operating the bobbin winder). Next, unscrew the locknut, and remove the washer and hand wheel. Most machines will have a washer that looks like one of the three shown. Some makes will be slightly different. Notice the position of the washer so you can put it back in the same position. You may want to make a small scratch to identify the side that goes out.

Different types of adjusting washers

The hand wheel should slide off the shaft easily. If the machine is driven by an external belt, this belt will have to be removed before the hand wheel will come off. (If the machine has an internal drive belt or the wheel obviously will not come off, do not remove the hand wheel. Replace the parts you have removed and skip this area.) Gear driven machines will have a gear on the inside of the hand wheel.

Hand wheel Area -- Loosen screw in the face of the locknut in
order to remove the clutch and hand wheel

Clean the hand wheel, washer, and shaft. Lubricate the shaft with two drops of oil and place a small amount of grease on all gears. Reassemble the hand wheel and clutch. If the clutch fails to operate, either because it will not hold or fails to release, remove the locknut again and turn the washer one half turn (180O) and reassemble. The clutch should then work properly.

After thoroughly cleaning these areas, reassemble the machine and run it by hand. It should run smoothly if all parts have been replaced correctly.

Do not plug the machine in until all the cleaning fluid is dry.

OILING AND LUBRICATING THE MACHINE

Allow the machine to stand overnight so excess cleaning fluid can evaporate before oiling and lubricating it. Check your machine instruction booklet to determine the type of oil lubricant to use and where to use them.

Some machines have bearings that are nylon or graphite-impregnated bronze and do not require oil or lubricant. Also, some machines do not need oiling because they are designed with oil impregnated in the bearing castings. If your machine does not require oil, do not us it.

Do not oil the tension discs, the hand wheel release or the belts and rubber rings on any machine.

In the holes designated, and on all parts that rub against or within another, squirt a little oil. Run the machine by hand to distribute the oil into all the bearings. Use oil freely because all oil has been removed in the cleaning process. If there are any wool or felt pads that feed oil to parts, be sure they are well-oiled.

For later oilings, one drop of oil on each bearing and in each oil hole is enough. It is a good practice to oil the machine after each day's work or after 8 to 10 hours of use. Even if you do not use your machine often, oil it occasionally to keep the oil from drying and gumming.

If the machine requires a lubricant, lubricate the areas suggested. Use the lubricant recommended for your machine for best results.

After oiling and lubricating the machine, wipe away excess oil and reassemble the machine. As you replace the parts that have been soaking in the pan, do not force screws or parts into place. Check to be sure it is in the correct location.

CARE OF THE MOTOR

Lubricating the electric motor of your sewing machine according to the manufactures directions.

Several newer machines have electric motors with sealed bearings that never need oiling. Lubricate motors that require oil or grease once a year. One or two drops per bearing is sufficient; over-oiling may ruin the motor. A sewing machine company oil or a good quality light oil is satisfactory to use. If you select a lightweight household oil, be sure it says non-gum forming and non-corrosive on the container. On a grease-fitted bearing, fill the grease cups once a year.

Check to see that all electric connections to the motor control and motor are tight. If the cord covering is not in good condition, tape it with good quality electric tape or replace the cord. The belt that connects the motor to the hand wheel should have just enough tension to keep it from slipping. On some machines, the belt can be adjusted by slightly shifting the position of the motor.

Take good care of the rubber driving ring or wheel on motors that drive machines by friction contact with the hand wheel. If this driving ring or wheel has become flat-sided or unevenly worn, causing excessive vibration, replace it with a new one. Keep the hand wheel clean and dry and the driving ring adjusted firmly to the hand wheel and in line, so the machine will run with a minimum of vibration.

ADJUSTING THE MACHINE

Now thread the machine and sew, using scraps of fabric to test the stitching.

Needle

First, be sure the needle is the proper length. Use the needle length or number recommended in your manual.

Second, use a needle with a diameter that is suitable for the fabric and thread size. Charts in your operators manual or in a sewing machine centre give the recommended size for sewing different thread sizes. Use of a larger diameter needle results in an unattractive stitch with larger than necessary needle holes in the fabric.

Third, be sure the needle is straight and does not have a dull point or burr.

Fourth, choose needles for sewing special fabrics, such as the ballpoint for knits and the wedge for leather.

The needle should be inserted in the needle-bar clamp, with the long groove side of the needle on the small side as the last thread guide, just above the needle clamp. It should be inserted all the way into the clamp until it hits the stop pin. On machine with adjustable needle-bar housing, adjust the position of the needle-bar until the needle goes through the centre of the needle hole in the needle plate.

Needle Plate (Throat Plate)

Manufacturers of some machines recommend use of the needle plate with the round hole for straight stitching and the elongated hole for the zig-zag stitch. Unless you use the proper needle plate, you may experience skipped stitches when making a straight stitch. This is especially true when sewing some synthetic fabrics. Check the needle (throat) plate for rough places and remove them with an emery paper or cloth.

Feed Dog

The teeth on the feed dog should project above the needle plate so that the bottom of the teeth, or serrations , are level with the top of the needle plate when the dog moves the material before the next stitch is made by the needle.

A good general setting is one that results in 10 to 12 stitches per inch of seam. On very thin and fine material, it may be necessary to use a shorter stitch for 14 to 16 stitches per inch of seam. On leather or vinyl, a longer stitch may be more desirable, resulting in 6 to 10 stitches per inch of seam.

Presser Foot

There should be just enough pressure on the presser foot to hold the fabric on the feed dog so that a uniform length of stitch is made. As a general rule, heavy fabrics, require light pressure. Pressure may be increased by pushing down on an inner pin, or decreased by releasing an outer ring. Other machines may have a thumb screw or a dial to regulate pressure. Check your machine booklet for instructions on how to adjust the pressure of our machine.

On slippery fabrics, loosely knitted fabrics, vinyl or velvet, a roller-type pressure foot may result in better feeding than the standard presser foot.

When darning, either reduce the pressure on the presser foot or lower the feed dog on machines with a drop feed button, or use a cover plate.

Thread Tension

Upper and lower tension must be balanced to produce a perfect stitch. The upper tension is located differently on different machines. It may be on the face plate, on the face of the needle-bar housing, on the front of the needle-bar housing, or on the upper arm of the machine head.

The lower tension, located on the shuttle or bobbin case, is adjusted by a screw. If two screws fasten the lower tension spring to the bobbin case, adjust by turning the screw nearest the centre of the spring not the screw on the end.

If, during the cleaning, the lower tension spring has been removed or its adjustment changed, the adjusting procedure is the same as in the ordinary use of the machine. That is, assume the lower tension to be correct until proved wrong. Make all adjustments on the upper tension.

If the lower tension has been disturbed, set both lower and upper tensions so there will be a slight drag on each thread. Use the same size thread on both bobbin and spool. Now, adjust the tension, take a look at the stitching the machine makes. To help you to see the stitches clearly, use contrasting colours of thread on the top and in the bobbin. Set stitch-length control for a medium length of stitch. Fold a 6- to 8-inch square of sheeting or average weight cloth and stitch diagonally across it at an angle of about 45^o.

Now inspect the stitching. In a perfect stitch, threads are locked in the centre, midway between the two layers of cloth, with no loops on the top or bottom of the seam and no puckers in the cloth.

Perfectly Locked Stitch

If loops of the bobbin thread show on the top side of the seam and the top thread is straight, the upper tension is tighter than the lower. In this case, loosen the top tension.

Upper Tension Too Tight

If loops of the spool thread show on the underside of the seam and the lower thread is straight, the upper tension is looser then the lower and should be tightened.

Upper Tension Too Loose

OPERATING TIPS

1. Always be sure the machine is oiled, that it is properly threaded, and that the bobbin is lint-free before starting to sew.

2. Use a needle size suitable for the fabric and thread weight. Be sure the needle is the correct length, straight and sharp. Change needles frequently when sewing synthetic fabrics. Ballpoint needles help prevent damage to knit fabrics.

3. Use the same thread in the bobbin as on the spool unless for special effect.

4. Pull the bobbin thread through the needle hole in the needle plate before starting to stitch.

5. As you start to stitch, place both threads under the presser foot and hold them to the back of the machine.

6. Turn the hand wheel toward you to start the stitching, if needed.

7. Start and stop the machine with the needle and thread take-up lever in their highest position.

8. Once the tension on the upper thread and bobbin thread are balanced, change only the upper thread tension for slight variation as needed.

9. To turn a corner, stop the machine while the needle is still in the fabric. Raise the pressure foot and turn the fabric, using the needle as a pivot point. Lower the pressure foot and resume sewing.

10. Protect your clean sewing from machine dust and grime between sewing projects by covering it or putting it inside the sewing cabinet or machine case.