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An overview of sewing-machine needles,
grouped into three categories: |
Standard
needles
The configuration of these needles is
based on the particular fabric to be sewn.
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 Universal
needle
Uses: Safest needle choice for most fabrics.
Configuration: Has slightly rounded point and elongated scarf
to enable almost foolproof meeting of needle and bobbin hook.
Troubleshooting: When fabric is not medium-weight woven,
consider needle specifically suited to fabric. For example, size 18
universal needle works on heavy denim, but size 18 jeans needle
works better.
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 Ballpoint
and stretch needles
Uses: Ballpoint needle for heavier, looser sweater knits;
stretch needle for highly elastic fabrics, like
Spandex, or Lycra.
Configuration: Both have rounded points that penetrate
between fabric threads rather than pierce them. (Stretch-needle
point is slightly less rounded than ballpoint.)
Troubleshooting: Test-stitch knits with ballpoint, stretch,
and universal needles to see which doesn't cut yarn and yields best
results. If ballpoint skips stitches, try stretch needle.
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 Microtex
and sharp needles
Uses: Sewing microfiber, silk, synthetic leather; precisely
stitching edges; and heirloom sewing.
Configuration: Has an acute point.
Troubleshooting: Essentially trouble-free, but fabric may
require a Teflon, roller, or even/dual-feed presser foot.
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 Leather
needle
Uses: Excellent for sewing natural leather.
Configuration: Has slight cutting point (almost like an
arrowhead).
Troubleshooting: On synthetic leather, unless it's very heavy
synthetic, cuts rather than pierces stitch hole and can tear
leather. Most synthetic leathers require Microtex or sharp needle.
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 Denim
(jeans) needle
Uses: For heavyweight denim, duck, canvas, upholstery
fabrics, artificial leather, and vinyl.
Configuration: Has deeper scarf, acute point, and modified
shaft to sew without pushing fabric down into needle-plate hole.
Goes through fabric and meets bobbin hook better on dense woven
fabrics.
Troubleshooting: If stitches skip when sewing very heavy
fabrics, try larger needle and sew more slowly or walk needle
through fabric (by turning hand crank).
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 Handicap/self-threading
needle
Uses: Enables easier threading for sewers with vision
problems.
Configuration: Universal needle with slip-in threading slot
at the eye.
Troubleshooting: Always pull sewn piece back away from needle
before cutting thread so needle doesn't unthread. Needle works well
on woven fabrics, but may occasionally snag knits, so test-sew to
check for fabric and needle compatibility.
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Decorative needles
The configuration is designed to wed
thread to fabric for surface embellishment.
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 Topstitching
needle
Uses: Topstitching.
Configuration: Has extra-acute point, extra-large eye, and
large groove for heavy thread.
Troubleshooting: Use smallest size needle that accommodates
your thread to avoid punching large holes in fabric.
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 Embroidery
needle
Uses: Machine embroidering or
embellishing with decorative thread.
Configuration: Has light point (neither sharp nor ballpoint)
and enlarged eye to keep decorative threads from shredding or
breaking, and prevent skipped stitches.
Troubleshooting: If thread still shreds on dense or heavily
stitched design, use larger size needle or Metallica needle.
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 Metallic
(Metafil and Metallica) needle
Uses: Sewing with decorative metallic threads.
Configuration: Has universal or standard point; large,
elongated eye; and large groove to allow fragile metallic and
synthetic filament threads to flow smoothly.
Troubleshooting: Metallic threads are very sensitive to
problems in machine: Tiniest burr on thread path or needle can cause
problems.
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 Quilting
(stippling) needle
Uses: Piecing, quilting, and stippling.
Configuration: Has special tapered shaft to prevent damaging
fabrics when stitching multiple layers.
Troubleshooting: Move fabric smoothly without pulling on
needle when free-motion stitching to prevent breaking needle.
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Special-purpose needles
These needles are used only with
front-to-back threading machines with zigzag features. Make sure
your throat-plate needle hole is wide enough to accommodate needle's
width, and zigzag width function is set at zero to prevent sideways
movement.
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 Hemstitch
(wing) needle
Uses: Hemstitching or heirloom embroidery on linen and
batiste.
Configuration: Has fins on sides of shank to create holes as
you sew.
Troubleshooting: Stitch is more effective when needle returns
to same needle hole more than once. If needle pushes fabric into
needle hole, put stabilizer under fabric.
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 Twin
(double) needle
Uses: Topstitching, pin tucking, and decorative stitching.
Configuration: Two needles on single shaft produce two rows
of stitches. Measurement between needles ranges from 1.6mm to 6mm,
and needles come with universal, stretch, embroidery, denim, and
Metallica points.
Troubleshooting: Be sure throat plate allows for distance
between needles.
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 Triple
needle
Uses: Same uses as for double needle.
Configuration: Cross bar on single shaft connects three
needles to sew three stitching rows. Comes with universal point in
2.5mm and 3mm widths.
Troubleshooting: Same as for double needle.
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 Spring
needle
Uses: Free-motion stitching with dropped feed dogs.
Configuration: Has wire spring above point to prevent fabrics
from riding up onto needle, eliminating need for presser foot.
Troubleshooting: Before using, practice free-motion stitching
with heavy regular needle, paper, and dropped feed dogs. Don't pull
paper/fabric; instead gently guide it through stitching. Wear safety
glasses for free-motion work, since needles often break.
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Sewing
Machine Services Luton Ltd 
